Hoi An and Da Nang Vietnam with Kids

One of my learnings from this trip to Hoi An and Da Nang with kids is that when they're tired, they make EVERYONE miserable. So take care to give them downtime at least once a day. Notify them of all the things you want to do, giving them a chance to help with the planning. I was reminded again that I travel much differently than the kids or my husband and I need to adjust my expectations before I go. This is the key to positive attitudes!

Day 1

Pool area at Hoi An Ancient House. As seen from the dining room:
 

We arrived into Vietnam from Bali in the afternoon. It takes quite some time to travel from Bali so our kids were tired. We opted for dinner at the hotel which was fine, but not as fun as it could have been if we'd gone into the city like I had wanted. Again... live and learn!
The Hoi An Ancient House Resort and Spa has lovely grounds, but the restaurant is so-so. The food took a while to be served and the room was hot and sticky where we were sitting. Add this to being tired and that made dinnertime a challenge. But they do have a pool table and chess in the bar/lounge area which kept them all entertained while we waited.
Just a little tip when you are in South East Asian countries... the best food to order is the local food. I know you may want a burger after a long day, but unless the place is run by a foreigner, chances are you will be disappointed in any western fare they have to offer.
In this particular hotel the fresh spring rolls and the Thai salad were delicious but the kids insisted on pizza and burgers which were disappointing. This isn't our first time to Vietnam. And all the pizza we have eaten in Vietnam has been sub-par, so just steer clear. Get the noodles instead! After dinner we went straight to bed to get a jump on the next day.

Day 2

After a quick breakfast at the hotel, I took one of the complimentary bicycles the hotel offers and with the baby headed into the Old Quarter to visit the clothing tailor Thanh Thuy. Hoi An is known for its tailor shops and sewing district and there are shops all over the Old Quarter.
You can arrive for a fitting for absolutely anything... coats, evening dresses, business suits or beach shorts and leave a few days later with something wonderful and at a good price. I wanted to duplicate some simple tropical dresses I own already. I brought a few from home and handed them over. They took my measurements, we chose fabrics and that was it!

Hurng at Thanh Thuy Cloth Shop



It was about 30 minutes before I was on my way again.  Although Asa choked on a candy in this shop and it was a bit scary. I received a recommendation from a friend to use Thanh Thuy Cloth Shop, and I was not disappointed. Hurng has been running her shop for about 14 years and knows her stuff. There are quite a few recommendations for other places online, but I felt more comfortable knowing that someone had already visited Hurng, and was happy. I was also ordering for another friend so my order turned out complicated, but Hurng handled it with grace and made sure I got what I wanted. And she even took good care of the baby while I perused the fabric samples!

Old Town

The boys and my husband gathered themselves and met me at the cloth shop which is just across from the morning market. The morning market is produce and meat for locals but also fruit if you want to stock up for the day with fresh bananas and mangosteens. Also there are other clothing shops with pre-made tropical dresses, hats and shirts as well as leather goods stores where you can get a bag or shoes made if you like!

Me and mine in Vietnam at the Noodle House in Old Quarter Hoi An
family on step
For lunch we stopped at The Noodle House along the main strip of the market. The Noodle House has great pho and smoothies which really perked us up.
After lunch the kids needed some down time so the boys (husband included) headed back to the hotel in a taxi which are cheap and plentiful, while I rode back on the bike. We cooled down at the pool enjoying their buy-one-get-one happy hour drinks while the baby napped.

Night Market

For dinner we took the hotel's free shuttle to their market drop-off point which is across the street from one of the most famous banh mi shops in all of Hoi An (and the world apparently, one tourist told me): Banh Mi Phuong. We just happened to stumble upon it before I registered where we were.

Baby eating at Bahn Mi Phuong

I had read about it and wanted to find it, but that is sometimes difficult with so many people in tow. So I was glad we inadvertently discovered it! It was about 5:30pm, so the line wasn't very long. And they move quickly so soon we were all chomping down on glorious banh mi. It's my favourite! I had the vegetarian and it was delicious. I even got a picky kid to try (and love) it!
We walked the streets while eating and ate them so fast we wished we would have ordered more! They are so well priced too. About $2-$3 each. We then spent the rest of the night walking the Lantern Market and enjoying all the street food we could find.
Throughout the Lantern Market (or Night Market) there are street performers, things to buy, foods to eat and colourfully lit lanterns everywhere you turn. I loved it all; the kids mostly loved the toys and my husband loved the food. Everyone was happy! They also have rickshaws to rent if your legs get tired, which our kids did, but they were too busy checking out every shop to sit long enough for a ride. But it's a good option if you need it.

Day 3

Inside a cave in Marble Mountain


As a side note, when booking your visas for Vietnam always do it in advance. When we booked our visa tickets, we chose the transport option, which means after they meet you at the visa-on-arrival counter at the airport, they escort you to a previously booked transport that takes you to your hotel.
I have traveled enough to know I don't NEED this option (I can easily get a taxi), but it's worth the extra money when you have a ton of kids traveling with you. It just makes the whole process so much easier. The driver who picked us up told us he could drive us around anytime we needed it. I took his number down (most Asian countries use Whats App to communicate) and I messaged him each evening to tell him of the next days plans. His car was clean, the air-conditioning worked great and it fit all of us. All the things I look for in transport! He picked us up bright and early for the day.

Marble Mountain

We drove 30 minutes to Marble Mountain which is actually closer to Da Nang. We hiked through caves, climbed the mountain and visited shrines. I'm not going to lie, it was hot. The kids didn't last as long as I hoped. The only thing that kept them moving was the adventure of hiking in the cave and the promise of ice cream.
Never underestimate the power ice cream can have on a sweaty, tired child!
After Marble Mountain we picked up snacks and travel food from a market; opting to skip a formal lunch in exchange for a proper dinner at the other end of our day. In hindsight we should have made the time, because again, food makes kids happy.
Our driver had many recommendations for shops at Marble Mountain which we skipped, but I am sure he would have had food recommendations as well if we'd asked. He was from Da Nang and was very excited to show us his hometown!

My Son Sanctuary

The ruins at My Son Sanctuary UNESCO World Heritage Site Da Nang Vietnam

Next we drove out to My Son Sanctuary which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Something I LOVE and the kids HATE. They decided that sitting at the little shop there was better than walking in the heat. So again, ice cream, while we hiked around ruins that were amazing to behold. These are from the Champa period which is around the same time as places at Angkor Wat Cambodia, so there are a lot of similarities.
After a full day of sweating and walking we loaded up with more ice cream and water before heading back to the hotel.
We finished up the night with more banh mi because we loved it so much! While out waiting for our order, we stood in front of a neighboring shop which turned out to be the bakery for the Banh Mi Phuong shop. They passed out a hot baguette loaf, fresh from the oven, to each of the children. It was so kind and thoughtful of them. One of the many things I appreciate about Asian countries is their love for children, and when you have five, that is something that does not go unnoticed!
We spent the rest of the evening exploring more streets and eating more ice cream. Ice cream consumption is a given on any of our family trips.

Day 4

Ba Na Hills

Our driver picked us up after breakfast for the hour drive to Ba Na Hills. I didn't fully realize what we were actually doing until we got there. But, if you want everyone to have fun when you're travelling Hoi An and Da Nang with kids, you'll want to consider this!

Cable Car ride up to Sun World in Ba Na Hills Vietnam

Once there, you'll find the longest cable-car run in the world. It goes to the top of Ba Na Hill, to Sun World which is a french village-styled theme park. I was truly surprised! (Discount tickets available here with our affiliate partner).
I wasn't planning on anything like this but it ended up being a nice change for the kids from the day before. The amusement rides, food, flower parks, wax museum and games, are all included with your ticket purchase. The view was beautiful, but the rain and fog took over soon after we arrived. So we spent most of our time at the indoor amusement rides. I had hoped to do more outside, but the kids were happy as clams.
We ate lunch at Brasserie which is in the park. Their Italian dishes were huge but the food was average. I would have preferred something with a more Asian flavour but again... kids.
We stayed all day and then drove to Da Nang to check into our new accommodations at the Adamo Hotel.
Dinner at Retro Kitchen wasn't much to write home about. We could have chosen better. A tell-tale sign of a good place is how many people are eating there. It's a pretty good indication that is more than decent.
This place was empty, but they had something my kids wanted so we stopped. The adults ordered pho and were happy, it really was good. But the western fare wasn't worth it. For some reason every time I tell my kids to order local they don't listen to me, but I really do know what I am talking about!

Day 5

The Adamo Hotel is across the street from My Khe beach which was clean and beautiful.
I was surprised by how clean the beach was after living in the trash on the beaches of Bali. So it was a beautiful day. I fully plan on heading back to Da Nang just for the beach! It really is worth the trip. We rented body boards by the hour to play in the waves. I just want it to be known that we hit Ny Khe Beach on Mother's Day (American). The kids and even Patrick had no clue what day it was. All I wanted to do was spend a lovely day on the beach with my kids around me playing in the water and drinking juice. But they lasted about an hour and asked to go and swim in the pool. So they left me to read and I spent another hour of Mother's Day by myself, which also turned out to be pretty nice. So all in all, it wasn't too bad.

My Khe Beach

There are loungers you can rent as well as food shops along the beach. There was an Iron Man race going on along the road between our hotel and the beach so there was a lot of commotion and people. After the race there was a lot of through traffic on that road.

View of My Khe Beach in Da Nang from Adamo Hotel rooftop: K Larsen[/caption]

I liked the location to the beach but there are beach clubs at night and traffic all day, so if you have little people who have trouble sleeping with noise, this is not the hotel for you.
There are many to choose from just one block up from the beach. I would say, if visiting Da Nang, definitely opt for a hotel close to the beach as it's a great treasure and makes for a fun time.
After some beach time the kids wanted to use the rooftop pool at the hotel while the baby napped, and it was easy to oblige. However that usually means eating, and I didn't think the food at the hotel was great. I would recommend sticking with drinks at the pool and eating elsewhere, or choose a different hotel that is known for good food. Next time I will remember that my kids like eating in hotels and will choose more wisely.
The kids had some down time after swimming while my husband and I took care of some work/emails and discussed our evening plans. We gave the kids a few options; Lady Buddha, Da Nang Cathedral, Night Market to which they gave me a solid NO.... and no joke, they asked if they could go to an amusement park again.
Apparently Ba Na Hills was so fun they couldn't stop thinking about it.

Da Nang Wonders

Luckily for us, Sun World who owns the park in Ba Na Hills also has an amusement park in downtown Da Nang. So for the late afternoon and evening we went to Asia Park Sun World Da Nang Wonders.

Sun Wheel from Asia Park in Da Nang

It turns out the park is HUGE and there was hardly anyone there so we rode the rides multiple times in a row as desired! If you are in Da Nang and want something fun to do with kids, this is actually a great option. My only tip: come with plenty of cash because there are zero ATM machines in the park.
We didn't know this would be an "amusement park" heavy vacation but when a kid comes running up to you and says "I am having so much fun!" well, as a parent you throw your hands in the air and say, "Ok... this is the way we travel right now." And when the kids are happy, mom and dad are too!
We were having so much fun we forgot about dinner and got to the hotel late. They shut down room service fairly early (9pm) so we had to do some scrounging for food. We had smoothies and shakes from the pool bar and the kids went to bed happy.
Our trip to Hoi An and Da Nang with kids finished on a high note.

Day 6

We spent the morning at the pool enjoying the last views of the city and beach before having our driver take us to the airport for our flight home.

Final Tips for travelling in Vietnam

You will need a visa before you get to the Visa on Arrival counter. Here are the companies that I have used with quick and efficient turn around:
Vietnam can get hot from May-September. Come prepared with a hand fan, hat/visor and sunscreen. Umbrellas are also nice because they work in rain and sun.
Always ask a Vietnamese person for permission to take their photo.
Book accommodations with a pool to make it easier to play and have fun even if you have a baby that needs a nap.
Do not order western food unless it is from a place that is run by a westerner. Chances are you will be disappointed in the selection and the way it is prepared.
Steer clear of the pizza in Vietnam all together (unless its a real pizza place). Otherwise it's just too disappointing.
Both Mango Mango and Streets Restaurant were recommended to me, but I didn't get a chance to try myself. Give them a go if you get a chance.

Flights

We always fly Air Asia when hopping around South East Asia, but after many difficult flights of seats being moved on us, poor communication and staff not being helpful, we are thinking we need to change. When traveling with five kids it's hard enough to manage unpredictability without the airline throwing a wrench into things.
AirAsia is one of the many budget airlines to serve South East Asia. Check out the different promotions and options with Tiger Air, Jet Star and even Scoot Airlines. None of them will be as nice as Singapore Air or Qantas but they will be more affordable if you are traveling as a family.

Trip taken May 2019

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